my sugar gliders Kelly & Connie eating their food

my sugar gliders eating their food

aquarium plants

sugar glider munching on a worm

suger glider eats food lots of food

kitchen utensils hammock camping aquarium plants

Sugar Glider Food - 4 Important Nutrients Needed by These Lovely Pets

As a sugar glider owner, you want your pet to stay healthy as probable. Giving your pet the proper food for it is an immense part. If you do not give your little pets the right kind of foods, its health will definitely suffer.

It is actually very simple to look for the appropriate sugar glider food, since there is no special foods are needed for it and you may already have the victuals that need. Aside from it, you need to realize that these little pets are quite picky eater. But to combat this thing, you have to look for these following essentials that sugar gliders required to stay strong, active and of course, healthy.

* Protein- it is not only needed by human but also for animals, most especially for sugar gliders diet. Boiled eggs are good sources of this kind of essentials, as the protein that it contains is totally functional for the body. This is not the case with many protein rich foods. However, there is a replacement, it is high in phosphorus that slows down the absorption of calcium. You can feed your pets with ground turkey meat being simmered with water several times a week. Also, you can use a monkey diet that contains 25% of protein as the base for all of its meals. Turkey meat also has a terrible portion of phosphorus and calcium, so extra quantity of these two is needed to balance these things out.

* Calcium- it is the other essentials that you need to include for your sugar gliders food. Phosphorus limits the absorption of calcium nutrients and many of the food items that you feed for your little pet have high in ratio of calcium to phosphorus. But in most animals, overdosing calcium cannot actually cause problems in the urinary tract.

* Fats and sweets- sugar gliders have real sweet teeth and can be tiny pigs when it actually comes to foods that are high in fat contents and sweet. Fatty deposits could actually build up within the eyes and could cause loss of sight as well as sugar gliders that are fed with an indecent diet could actually develop very strong smelling urines.

* Water- ample supply of fluids, most especially water is very important in all living things as well as for the sugar glider foods. Gliders can dehydrate and die fast once they do not take in enough amount of water. You can also serve your little pets with filtered water and add º cup of cup of organic apple cider vinegar in each of the gallon. This kind of vinegar is an antibiotic that comes naturally and beneficial, not only for animals but for animals like sugar gliders too. You can let this to over dose it, though; too much of something is bad.

Besides from this, baby foods are also good as sugar gliders food, if you only have few of these pets, vegetables as well as fruits and mixture of meats and vegetables are good sources to serve for your pets.

corner aquariums

Appropriate Sugar Glider Food

www.AdoptSugarGliders.com Learn what are the appropriate sugar glider food. See the importance of providing proper sugar glider food. www.AdoptSugarGliders.com Discover How To Breed, Train And Care For Your Sugar Bliders, Visit NOW www.AdoptSugarGliders.com

aquarium ornaments hammock stand sale hammock stand

Preparing Nightly Food for Sugar Gliders

This an example of how to prepare the food for your sugar gliders every night. It is a little out of date as far as how we do it. Our intention is to educate about sugar glider diet and other care. This video should be helpful to anyone considering purchasing sugar gliders as pets. We have a LOT of updated diet information & recipes on our website: www.sweet-sugar-gliders.com.

hammock tent

Enriching Your Snakes Life

Unfortunately, many snake keepers do not actually think about their snakes' psychological issues. It is well known within the hobby that a vast number of snake species are fairly 'lazy' creatures, perhaps only venturing out of their hide for food, water, or a mate. This is a true statement for many species, and this habit will most certainly be the same in the wild as well as in captivity. However, in the wild the snake may spend hours or perhaps days hunting for food, may travel some distance to find water and may spend weeks courting females and perhaps fighting males in the process. This article describes the many ways possible to keep your pet snake healthy and active, ensuring little chance of obesity or behavioural problems caused by boredom or inactivity.

The first and foremost point is to ensure that the basics are in place. That is; an adequate sized vivarium, appropriate temperature levels allowing for thermoregulation, adequate humidity levels if necessary, enough food and water and a hiding place where the snake may retreat to. Once these are all in place, it is possible to expand on each area, making life more interesting for your snake and therefore a more pleasurable viewing experience for yourself.

Many experts in the reptile industry will no doubt spend a considerable amount of time explaining to beginners and interested people that snakes do not actually need much space. It is widely accepted that snakes will live happily in a terrarium smaller than its own length, and I do not disagree completely with this statement. In fact, many individual snakes will suffer dramatic consequences when placed into a terrarium too large. They often become so stressed they will not feed, become very timid, rarely venture out of a hide, become overly aggressive and will not control their body temperature adequately leading to further problems. It is important when changing terrarium size for your snake that you are comfortable with your snakes feeding habits, and that it is comfortable with you as the handler. If it is, I urge everyone to expand the size of terrarium offered to their snake. The larger the vivarium, the more hiding areas and décor there should be. This will allow more interest and the opportunity for more exercise. If however, your snake does not take well to the move and refuses food, do not move the snake back into its original enclosure straight away. Instead, try for 2-4 weeks to let your snake settle in, ensuring the heat levels are appropriate and that there are enough hiding areas. I suggest for the initial move that the décor and hide areas from the old terrarium are moved into the larger one. This will make your snake feel more comfortable and speed up the transitional period.

The terrarium furnishings will play a very important role in enriching your snakes' life. You could try offering various substrate depths, types and levels. For instance, you could build the substrate up to 20cm deep at one end of the enclosure, perhaps held up by some natural cork bark or rock, and then have a lower layer of 3cm deep towards the other end. Offering more than one substrate within the terrarium will allow the snake to move around on different textured surfaces. Perhaps for a rainforest species; bark chips could be mixed with soil and dried leaves. Fake plants are perfect for snake enclosures; they can be washed easily and do not get squashed if a heavy snake decides to sit on it. These plants can hang from the ceiling or back wall, drape and wrap around sticks perched across the terrarium, or could simply be placed in bundles on the ground to mimic small bushes. Having a number of basking sites within the terrarium are particularly important for diurnal species. These should be open areas underneath a heat source, preferably more than one area and could be directed on a flat stone, a hanging branch or even on top of a hiding area. It is important that any heavy items of décor placed into the vivarium are fixed securely. However, allowing slight movement in lighter objects such as small branches and plants is only natural and will certainly stimulate the snakes' natural responses.

It is important to realise not only what temperatures your snake should be exposed to, but also in what manner they are offered. In the wild, heat is gained by use of the sun, but this is not to say that a snake must have a basking area with heat or light from above. You should first find out where your snake comes from and the daily habits which it would naturally go through.

Nearly all diurnal snakes will bask in the sun; it is therefore only natural to offer a spot bulb type of heat. This will mimic the sun and should allow the snake to bask directly underneath the area which the bulb is pointing. The sun also moves throughout the day, meaning that many a time, the snake will also have to move. Often, diurnal species do not bask during the middle of the day; instead they will bask in the early morning and late afternoon. By placing 2 spot bulbs in different areas of the terrarium wired into a timer, you can mimic the effect of the sun and give the snake the chance to search out a new, better basking site. If you have a large budget and terrarium to play with, you can offer further basking sites for different times of the day. You could even set up the lamps with timers on dimming thermostats so that the temperature output could lessen or greaten depending on the time of day.

Many nocturnal or rainforest dwelling species will not bask in the sun, but should be exposed to a higher day time temperature. Although it is recommended that you offer varying temperatures, there should be an overall air temperature. This can be achieved by using a power plate. A power plate is a 75Watt heater that is attached to the ceiling of your terrarium and provides a wider range of heat from above, making it more efficient at raising the actual air temperature than other heaters. Lighting should still be offered for these species, although in the form of a fluorescent tube. At night, a red bulb or moon bulb could be used for background heat and to allow better viewing of the snake.

Nocturnal, terrestrial species that do not live in a rainforest environment will often obtain their heat from the ground surface, usually on flat rocks which have been exposed to the sun during the day and allowed to heat up. This heat is retained for some hours throughout the evening. Hot rocks are available to mimic this behaviour, although it is only suggested that you use these for a few hours at the appropriate time; generally as lights go out until 4 hours later.

Water is generally offered in a small water dish which doesn't even allow the snake to fully submerse itself. Although this is preferable for many desert dwelling species, other species will regularly travel to streams, ponds or puddles to drink, bathe and swim. Offering water in a larger dish, away from the heat source will stimulate the snake to bathe and swim more often, allowing for more exercise. Be sure to watch for faeces in the water, as many snakes will commonly excrete during bathing. Allowing water movement through a pump, air bubbles or even a small waterfall will also stimulate the snake to bathe and drink regularly. For rainforest dwelling species, particularly arboreal species, a drip system and / or misting system will simulate rainfall in the wild. This may be very important for some species that will predominantly drink from water droplets that gather on leaves or branches.

One major part to all snakes' lives is feeding. In the wild, snakes will have to hunt for a wide variety of live prey. Some snakes may ambush their prey; others will use sight and chase their prey, while others will use scent. In captivity, feeding live prey is frowned upon unless in extreme circumstances where the snake simply refuses all other feeding methods. Feeding live prey to captive snakes would of course stimulate their natural feeding behaviour; however it can be dangerous and is almost certainly not necessary. It is possible though, to recreate some of the snakes' natural feeding responses and make it exercise for food.

Unfortunately, a large percentage of reptile hobbyists are not educated enough to realise the importance of reptile stimulation through feeding. Snakes get most of their exercise through hunting and breeding, so if your snake is not used for breeding and is fed by virtually placing a dead rodent into its mouth, it will hardly get much exercise. This has caused a large number of reptiles in captivity to become overweight and obese, usually with the owners unaware. There are a number of methods you can use to both stimulate the natural senses of hunting and to also force the snake to move around the enclosure in order to feed.

If your terrarium has plenty of décor and hide areas, try hiding the food underneath foliage or in hiding areas. By rubbing the food along different surfaces of the terrarium it is possible to create a scent trail. Try and make this trail as elaborate as possible, this will no doubt confuse the snake but will inevitably make it move more and get more exercise. You can also try hanging the food from the roof of the terrarium. It is not wise to tie the food with string or other non-digestible material; however, a mouse tail for instance could be trapped in the lid of the terrarium or some kind of clip. With the force of the snake tugging at the food, it should break free. This will make it a little harder for the snake to strike, as the food will sway around as it attempts to bite it. If your snake has a routine feeding regime, for instance every Monday evening, there is every chance it will begin to associate this time with food. This has been commonly recorded in large pythons and is a very dangerous situation to arise. Not only is it un-natural, but can result in the snake striking at anything that enters the enclosure at this particular time, even your hand. Many keepers will see this as aggression, but may simply be a triggered feeding response. It is more natural to feed your snake at random intervals and at different times during the day or night (depending on whether your snake is diurnal or nocturnal). Try to keep regular watch of your snake, if it is being lazy and is simply hides all day long, don't feed it. Wait until the snake starts to venture out and search for food without any food actually being there, this will encourage the snake to search for food more often if you only feed while the snake is roaming around. Tease feeding is an excellent method to re-create a wild animal's movements. With a pair of long forceps you can grip the food item and move it around, simulating the movements of the animal in the wild. If the snake shows interest, move it further away and around the enclosure, enticing the snake to chase and hunt the food. Once the snake strikes; shake the food quite violently to simulate a struggle situation. At this point, the snake should coil around the food and exert a great deal of energy in asphyxiating the prey. This method is the closest you can come to seeing the snakes' natural feeding methods and can be quite exciting to watch.

Handling your snake on a regular basis is a similar situation to taking your dog for a walk. It is a way of taking the snake out of its usual environment to provide exercise and an array of unusual smells. Many wild caught snakes, or snakes not used to being handled should have limitations on the amount of time spent handling. The last thing you want to do is stress the snake by over-handling. Captive bred individuals that are regularly handled will however enjoy human interaction and the chance to move around different surfaces. On a warm day, take your snake outside in the garden and let it roam around on the grass. Be very careful not to take your eyes off the snake though, the last thing you want is for it to quickly burrow into the ground or worse still, grabbed by a passing predatory bird. Being able to handle your snake will not only allow exercise and scent stimulation, it will also allow for easier maintenance and veterinary care if needed.

It has hardly been recognised that snakes require mental stimulation to stay fit and healthy in captivity. This article, together with your own ideas should prevent your snake from becoming obese and from having any behavioural problems.

We would love to hear if you try any of our methods, or have your own methods you would like to share with us. Please visit our web site and let us know how you and your snake are getting on!

fabric hammock aquarium plants

Rotastak Fairground Fun - An Introduction

The Rotastak Fairground Fun is another amazing cage designed by Rotastak. It is suitably designed for your hamsters, gerbils and mice. The tunnels, 'roller coaster track' tubes and accessories simulates their living environment in the wild, making the cage a complete living environment for them. In my opinion, it is the large amount of space and the wide variety of accessories that makes the Rotastak Fairground Fun such a good cage for your pet:

Intro 1. Dimensions of the Rotastak Fairground Fun

After assembling The Fairground Fun has an approximate dimension of:

57cm (22.5 inch) High
51cm (20 inch) Wide
75cm (29.5 inch) Deep

The recommended size, by experienced hamster breeders, of a Syrian hamster cage should be at least:

30.5cm (12 inch) High
30.5cm (12 inch) Wide
61.0cm (24 inch) Deep

And the size of cage of 2 dwarf hamsters should be at least:

30.5cm (12 inch) High
30.5cm (12 inch) Wide
61.0cm (24 inch) Deep

As such, it is clear to see that this cage provides plentiful space for your hamsters to runabout and explore. After analyzing 20 reviews from satisfied customers, most of them mentioned that their hamsters love the Rotastak Fairground Fun.

Intro 2. Items in the Rotastak Fairground Fun

It has the following 7 items:

The Main Living Area (a kidney-shaped unit)
An Additional Bedroom (a circular-shaped unit)
A Fun Dining Room (a dome-shaped unit )
Twisty colorful Rotastak interconnecting tubes
An Exercise wheel (like Rainbow Runner)
A Feeding bowl
A Water bottle

The accessories and units simulate the natural living environment of your hamster, gerbil or mice. In the wild, they live underground to hide from the heat and predators in the day. The 'path' underground is simulated by the tubes. To the delight of your children, your pet will provide lots of entertainment by spending countless of hours running through these tubes.

The main living area of the cage is where the hamsters run about and play with their mates. A wheel is also provided to ensure that your pet has sufficient exercise for them. The Rotastak Fairground Fun also has an attic dining room where your hamsters can hoard their food.

There is one last thing I strongly recommend you to read before you buy this cage. I understand that more information is required before you make a decision to buy the cage. I always feel that it is important to read the comments by customers before buying a product. I found out that a summarized product review will be sufficient to read as I do not want to go through a whole list of them.

kitchen utensils hammock stand

Understand The Low Appetite Of Your Pet Turtle

Most of the tortoises are aquatic reptiles, which need to be in the water while feeding, in order to be able to swallow. In most of the cases, even if you put their food on land, they will drag it into the water and only there eat it. You can leave alive animals in the turtle's water, in case those are aquatic, too. In case you feed your turtle on insects that are not aquatic, don't let the food on land for more than a few minutes. You should remove it and than place it again on the ground next time you feed your turtle. Adult tortoises need to eat about three times in a week, but cubs must be fed every day.

* Make sure the temperature is sufficiently high; if not, your turtle will not eat.

* Keep in mind that tortoises may live for entire weeks without feeding themselves; when it feels better, its appetite will return. In case you suspect a more serious problem, address to a doctor.

* The lack of appetite may signal a health problem, especially if it appears out of nothing. You should take a sample of your turtle's feces and have it examined by the vet. This sample must be fresher than four hours and kept cold, in water inside the fridge.

* Try to change the food you usually give to the tortoise. They may not like the aliments you used to feed them. The favorite food of the turtles consists in live little earth worms. In association with these you may gradually give them other aliments too.

* In case the tortoise is stressed by traveling, tank mates or handling have a lot of patience and be perseverant.

You don't need to worry in case a baby turtle, a hibernating one or a female with eggs don't eat for several weeks. In other cases, it is extremely important for a veterinarian to examine your turtle.

Biube Aquarium

Sugar Gliders: Tiny Acrobats

In the last decade or so, the popularity of sugar gliders as pets has grown considerably. The small size of these furry acrobats, their personalities, their plush fur, their large eyes, their agility and their ability to bond closely with humans have attracted legions of new sugar glider devotees.

What is a sugar glider and where did they originally come from? Sugar gliders are small marsupials and members of the possum family. They are found in Australia, Tasmania, Indonesia, and New Guinea. Their scientific name is Petaurus breviceps. Most sugar gliders these days are captive-bred and not wild-caught.

Like their larger marsupial cousins, kangaroos, sugar gliders have a pouch where their infants grow and develop. Their young are called "joeys," as are the young of kangaroos. You may come across the term OOP while researching sugar gliders on the internet. OOP means "out-of-pouch" and it indicates how long the joey has been completely out of his mother's pouch. Joeys are ready to go to a new home at approximately 8 weeks OOP.

Sugar gliders are approximately chipmunk-sized, measuring about 9 to 12 inches long (including their long tail), and they weigh about 3 to 6 ounces as adults. Their normal color is steel gray to brownish with a black stripe down the back, but selective breeding in captivity has brought out other color variations, including albinos. In captivity, they can live as long as 15 years, although 8 to 12 years is more usual.

One of the most distinguishing features of sugar gliders is a thin membrane, called a patagium, that stretches between their front and rear legs, much like the more familiar flying squirrels of North America. This is what allows them to glide from tree to tree. When they glide, the skin spreads out, making sugar gliders look like furry kites! When the sugar glider is sitting, the patagium looks like ruffled furry skin, shaped somewhat like the edge of lasagna noodles.

Their tail is not prehensile, unlike their more familiar American opossum cousins. That means that sugar gliders cannot grasp, grip and hang from their tails. Instead, the tail is used as a balancing and stabilizing tool, especially while gliding.

Sugar gliders are nocturnal, which means they are active at night. They have very large (relative to their size) eyes, which help them see at night. They also have large ears, an obvious benefit to an animal who is both preyed-upon and a predator. Those big ears allow them to hear even the smallest sound.

Sugar gliders have fixed teeth, incisors, molars, and premolars. You should not trim your sugar glider's teeth. Unlike some species, such as guinea pigs, their teeth do not continue to grow once mature. If a tooth falls out, it is not replaced. Wild gliders chew on branches and in the process, clean their teeth. Gliders in cages will also chew on branches.

Sugar gliders have 5 toes on their front feet. Each toe ends with a very sharp claw that helps them land when they glide. Those claws also make gliders very agile climbers. Their hind feet also have 5 toes, but one of them is an enlarged, clawless opposable toe. An opposable toe means that they can use that toe to grip things, much as humans' opposable thumbs allow us to do the same.

Why are they called "sugar gliders"? In the wild, sugar gliders eat, as part of their diet, manna (a crusty sugar left where sap flowed from a tree trunk or branch) and honeydew (an excess sugar produced by sap-sucking insects). In captivity, sugar gliders have a fondness for sweet foods. They will eat too many sweets if allowed, so sweet foods must be rationed.

In the wild, sugar gliders nest in holes of trees in colonies of 7 to 15 members and have been observed gliding as far as 300 feet! The ability to glide is one of the most amazing features of sugar gliders, and one of the things that makes them such special pets. Teaching your sugar glider to glide to you is very rewarding!

Sugar gliders are social animals, which means they live in groups. They get along with and love the company other sugar gliders, and many sugar glider owners choose to have more than one glider. It is their social nature that allows them to develop strong bonds with their human owners. But it is also that social nature that creates their need for attention from their owners. Sugar gliders are not the kind of pet that can be left for long periods of time without any attention from their owners. The more time you spend with your sugar glider, the more he will become bonded with you.

Many sugar glider owners bond with their new gliders by carrying them around in a bonding pouch for several hours a day while the glider sleeps. Sugar gliders are sometimes called "pocket pets" because they will often curl up in your pocket and go to sleep!

Diet and housing are perhaps the two most important factors in deciding whether a sugar glider is the right pet for you. Sugar gliders require a varied diet consisting of a protein source (meat, insects, etc.), a fruit and/or vegetable source, and a supplement of calcium. There are commercial sugar glider dry and soft-pellet foods available, but it is not recommended that you feed your sugar glider a diet consisting solely of these commercial foods. Sugar gliders require fresh food sources in addition to any commercial food. Calcium is also crucial to their diet, and there are a number of products on the market that will allow you to easily add calcium to your sugar glider's diet.

Sugar gliders require as tall a cage as possible. They feel safer up high because they are normally tree-dwellers. 30 inches tall is usually the bare minimum for a sugar glider cage, but most breeders and sugar glider experts recommend cages 4 feet tall or higher. Many sugar glider owners buy flight cages designed for finches and other small birds. The flight cages are tall enough and roomy enough for a sugar glider. It is also recommended that sugar glider owners permit their gliders supervised play time in a glider-safe room for at least several hours a day.

Although sugar gliders are loving, affectionate and adorable, it is recommended that an adult closely supervise any young children around sugar gliders.

The cost of a sugar glider is approximately $150 to $250. If the glider must be shipped to you via airplane, there will be an additional cost. Certain desirable color variations can raise the price of a sugar glider considerably.

fabric hammock cheap hammock

Sugar Glider Care - Diet As an Important Aspect About Caring For This Pet

Sugar glider care is very important because having this kind of pet is not so common unlike other creature. This social and gentle marsupial is relatively and greatly from Southern Australia. On its natural habitat, it can glide from one tree to another by using their membrane that can stretch from its wrists to the ankles.

This social animal usually lives in a group that is mainly made up of six to forty animals. Since the sugar gliders are social in nature, it must be raised with some companion. It can be healthier and happier if they are been raised in groups. This is one of the most important considerations before having them as pet.

Sugar glider are pets that needs mostly the attention of their owners, because, they really love to play. Once they are at home, pet owners are highly required to have a bond with them. As the sugar glider sleep during the day, owners can bond with them by letting them sleep on to the pocket or in a fanny pack, always put them at your front to prevent sitting on it. Having a good sugar glider care plan for their environment and the feeding are great, but owners should also focus on to the connection with them.

For the dietary care requirement of this pet, the sugar glider must not consume fatty foods. Their common diet is vegetables and fruits that are rich in protein. Here are some examples of foods they like to eat.

* Cantaloupe fruit jams
* Strawberries
* Raisins
* Pumpkin seeds and pineapple
* Peaches and Apricots
* Dried fruits
* Low fat deli ham and turkey
* Peas and carrots
* Sunflower seeds
* Low fat Yogurt
* Paw paws, assorted baby foods that are rich in protein
* Peanuts, squash and hard boiled eggs
* Sweet potatoes, yams, oranges and blueberries
* Pears, corn and honey dew melon
* Grapes
* Fruit juices
* Almond and papaya
* Honey
* Mealworms

Fluid intake of this animal mainly comes from the wild. Also, sugar glider must have plenty of fresh water available. On the other hand, this is not the basis that they will not get vitamin deficiency. Owners should offer liquid supplement on its food or ether water. They must also avoid artificial food colors, flavors and preservatives. Sugar glider care and diet is very important on to this animal, although they are very expensive to feed. People should have serious consideration before having them as a pet.

To complete the sugar glider care preparation, do keep the pet free within or outside the house. Strict supervision should be imposed to avoid any injuries. This animal also likes to chew anything that is chewable. Also an important reminder, don't forget that the sugar glider is nocturnal; avoid direct sunlight that can damage its eyes.

Owners should put branches of trees within the cage to make them feel that they are in their natural habitat. This can also serve as their shade while they can have their exercise by climbing and also for chewing were they can maintain the healthy condition of their teeth. Always remember also to replace the branch regularly.

Pet owners should also provide their nesting ground were they can take some rest and to comfort themselves during daylight. A pair of unscented tissues can be made as their blankets and pillows. The animals feet is a bit sticky, bedding can be tricky, try to use corncob as their bed.

cheap hammock